Direct replacement for your factory plastic tanks. This combo includes our super popular Coolant Expansion tank and Power Steering tank.
Made by Moroso, all aluminium with beautiful TIG welding. Constructed with internal baffles and machined aluminium necks that take the factory caps. All of the inlets and outlets are positioned to match up with the factory hoses. The tanks mount to the same locations as the factory tanks and are built with the same dimensions for an easy fit.
As these cars age, the factory plastic tank is a common failure point because the plastic gets brittle and cracks. Unlike the earlier cars where that just meant a leak, the NC relies on this tank to be a pressurized part of the cooling system, which means that as soon as a crack forms the system loses pressure and the engine overheats. We've had more and more people bring in cars with blown motors due to this simple failure, and along with a new expansion tank now they need a new motor as well, so we decided it was time for a "lifetime" solution. This tank is the solution. It will not fail over time like the factory tank, and looks great as well!
While the factory squeeze-clamps on the hoses can be re-used, they get weaker the more they are removed/installed and having a tight seal on all the hoses is important since this tank is pressurized. We recommend changing the squeeze clamps out for worm drive hose clamps which can be found at any auto parts store. #4 worm clamp (x2) for the top two nipples, #10 worm clamp (x1) for the bottom.
Power Steering Tank:
This all-aluminium replacement will never wear out and looks great. The custom machined neck takes the factory cap. Tank features internal baffles to reduce aeration of the fluid. Direct replacement for the factory tank. We always recommend changing the factory hose clamps out for worm-drive style hose clamps, available from any auto parts store.
Checking the level:
To make it easy to check the level of your power steering fluid, we made use of the features we were already adding; unlike the factory tank, this one has internal baffles to help reduce aeration of the fluid. The top-most baffle is placed at the full position for the fluid. Therefore, when you take the cap off and look inside you can only see down to the top surface of that baffle. If you see fluid at or slightly above that baffle, you're full and good to go. If the baffle/plate is dry, just add fluid until you see it.
Great write-up of the coolant tank install process over on the Revlimiter blog: